Congratulations on your new chicks! Before those fluffy little birds arrive, you'll want to get your brooder room set up just right. A warm, clean space makes all the difference in raising healthy chicks here in BC.
Here's what you need to know to give your chicks the best start.
Start Early — At Least a Week Ahead
Don't wait until the night before your chicks arrive. Give yourself at least a week to prepare properly. This gives you time to clean, disinfect, test your equipment, and make sure everything's working.
Clean and disinfect everything:
- Scrub your brooder area from top to bottom — walls, ceiling, floor, the works
- Clean all feeders, waterers, and heat lamps thoroughly
- Use a quality disinfectant like VIRKON to sanitize everything
- Let everything dry completely to prevent mold
Pre-Warm Your Space (This Is Critical!)
Here's where many people run into trouble: you need to pre-warm your brooder room for at least 24-48 hours before your chicks arrive.
Why this matters:
BC nights can get surprisingly cold, even in spring. Your brooder needs to be warm around the clock — not just when the sun's out.
Set up your heating:
- Keep the room temperature at 75°F (24°C)
- Use a high-low thermometer to check overnight lows
- Have a backup heater ready in case of power outages (BC winters are unpredictable!)
- Check for drafts around windows and doors and seal them up
- Make sure you still have good ventilation — fresh air is essential for healthy chicks
Bedding: Keep It Simple and Absorbent
Skip the newspaper — it's too slippery for baby chicks.
Use wood shavings 2-4 inches thick. Make the surface as level as possible, especially if you're raising turkeys. Baby turkeys can fall into dips and struggle to get up.
Set Up Your Equipment
You'll need:
- Heat lamps: One 250W red heat bulb for every 50 birds. Start the lamp 18 inches from the floor. A 4-bulb brooder with a thermostat is ideal — it's adjustable and safer. Pick up spare bulbs while you're at it.
- Feeders: Start with smaller 1-quart feeders for young chicks, then move to 20-inch flip-top feeders as they grow. Plan for two feeders per 50 birds.
- Brooder guard: Use 18-inch cardboard to create a circle (about 0.5 square feet per chick)
Waterers: You'll need 1 gallon of water capacity per 50 birds. Since these 1-quart waterers hold a quarter gallon each, here's what you need:
- 25 birds = 2 waterers
- 50 birds = 4 waterers
- 75 birds = 6 waterers
- 100 birds = 8 waterers
Stock up on extra jars to have clean ones ready for daily water changes. Place waterers on wire platforms to keep them elevated and chicks away from wet bedding.
Space guide:
- 50 birds = 20 feet of brooder guard
- 100 birds = 25 feet
- 150 birds = 30 feet
- 200 birds = 35 feet
Place feeders and waterers inside the brooder circle, within the warm zone. After 7-10 days, you can remove the brooder guard. Increase floor space by 50% after two weeks, and again after four weeks.
Feed and Water: Get It Right From Day One
Feed
You'll want a chick starter with at least 20% protein. We carry 23% protein poultry pre-starter crumbles which gives your chicks an even stronger start. Choose crumbles, not pellets or mash — they help chicks get balanced nutrition and encourage uniform distribution of nutrients.
Feed layers and dual-purpose birds on starter for 8 weeks, broilers for 3 weeks. If you're raising turkeys or bantams, they need a higher protein turkey starter (25-28%) for 8 weeks instead.
After the starter period, switch to a 16-20% poultry grower feed. If your chicks weren't vaccinated against coccidiosis, use medicated feed during the growing period. For vaccinated birds, stick with unmedicated feed.
Water
- Use cold water so chicks don't climb in
- For the first drink only, you can add 1 cup of sugar per gallon to give them extra energy
- Dip each chick's beak in the water when they arrive — it helps them find it
- Change water daily in all waterers and keep them on platforms to keep chicks away from wet bedding
- Having multiple waterers means you can rotate them — while some are being cleaned and refilled, others are still available for the chicks
Add vitamins: Use a vitamin supplement like Poul-Vite in their water for 5-7 days, then 2 days per week after that. Mix fresh daily. Avoid supplements with sodium for baby chicks.
Once they're a bit older: After a week or so, you can start offering chick grit if you're giving them any treats or greens. It helps them digest food properly.
Temperature: This Is Where Most Problems Start
Always use a thermometer. Measure the temperature at chick height, away from heat sources, in the coldest spot they can reach.
Target temperatures:
- Layers, dual-purpose, heritage breeds: 86-90°F (30-32°C)
- Broilers: 86-90°F (30-32°C)
- Turkeys, bantams, pheasants, guinea fowl: 95-100°F (35-38°C)
How to tell if they're comfortable:
- Too cold: Chicks huddle together, peep loudly, look lethargic
- Too hot: They spread out to the edges, pant, or hold their wings out
- Just right: Chicks are spread out evenly, running around, eating, drinking, and peeping calmly
Quick Troubleshooting
Pasty rear ends?
Usually means they got chilled early on. Clean gently with a warm wet cloth daily and check your temperature. If it doesn't clear up in a few days, your brooder might still be too cold.
Chicks dying at 4 days old?
They likely got too cold at night and spent energy staying warm instead of eating. Double-check your thermometer and overnight temps.
Turkeys struggling but chickens are fine?
Turkeys need higher heat (95-100°F vs 86-90°F). Check the temperature guide above and make sure they're eating and drinking.
Chicks picking at each other?
This usually means they're too hot, too crowded, need more fresh air, or aren't getting enough protein. Add more feeders, check your ventilation, and make sure you're using quality starter feed.
Birds looking droopy after going outside?
Temperature strikes again. Even warm BC days can have chilly nights. Young birds aren't ready for big temperature swings yet.
Common Questions
How do I know if my chicks are comfortable?
Watch their behavior — they'll tell you everything you need to know:
- Too cold: Huddled together in a tight group, peeping loudly, looking tired and inactive. They're burning energy trying to stay warm instead of growing.
- Too hot: Spread out far from the heat lamp, wings held out like a helicopter, panting, or making distressed chirping sounds.
- Just right: Spread out evenly around the brooder, running around eating and drinking, peeping calmly. That's what you want to see!
What if I got cocci-vaccinated chicks but can only find medicated feed?
Don't worry. The medication will just neutralize the vaccine, so you'll need to keep using medicated feed as if they hadn't been vaccinated. Not ideal, but your chicks will be fine.
Should I vaccinate for Marek's disease?
If you're raising laying hens, yes. Marek's affects the nervous system, spreads through dander, and has no cure. You could lose up to 80% of your flock if they get infected. Vaccination is your best protection.
You're Ready!
Setting up your brooder room right from the start means healthier chicks and fewer problems down the road. It's a bit of work upfront, but watching those chicks thrive makes it all worthwhile.
Need supplies? We've got you covered — from heat bulbs and feeders to quality starter feed, waterers, and vitamins. Shop online or stop by our Kamloops or Merritt locations. We're here to help.
Questions? Our team has seen every type of brooder setup in BC. Give us a call — we're happy to help you get it right.